Our pattern maker who has been hand making bags for 30+ years explains what he aims for in his own crafts and what he thinks you should look for in a quality leather bag.

Don't let price tags or brand names fool you. Companies will look to profit and sell you cheap bags for a lot of money. Make sure you're getting a beautifully crafted and durable bag. 

miim's novo ivory briefcase with a coral background

Leather

 

If you're buying a leather bag, make sure to touch the material. It should be smooth, subtle, and the pores should be small. Nice leather should be elastic. Try holding it tightly with your hands and see how it returns back to its original shape (Don't squeeze hard and ruin the stores bags). Still, nice leather should not tear easily. 

*Note - Not all great bags are made of leather! Synthetic materials are very popular as well and great fo the environment. Synthetics are also not all equal. Make sure you're getting something durable, flexible, and something that won't chip easily. ll, are great for the environment, and be more functional. 

Lining

bene briefcase opened

A nice leather bag is usually lined with thick, soft, fine-grained suede. Make sure to check the sewing of the lining, seems, and zippers. Look for consistent intervals, straight lines, and clean finishes. Bag makers may sometimes use cheaper materials for the interior of the bag knowing you will not check it. So make sure to check!

Zippers

Bene briefcase side

Zippers are often a dead giveaway if the bag has been crafted well or hastily. Most quality bags use metal zippers. They are more durable than cheap plastic ones. Make sure the teeth of the zippers are not sharp and check to see if the zipper moves smoothly without resistance (It should not snag or tug). Make sure the zipper lays flat and there are no inconsistent bulges. 

Stitch & Finish

 

The stitching should be straight with no imperfections. The thread should be thick and the stitches should be consistent and even. Check the bags finish. It is double coated? Does it have a natural gloss? 

Edges

Lucas Backpack

Edges should be rounded and not too thick. This often gets overlooked by bag makers. You don’t want fuzzy or hairy edges. You want polished and sometimes painted edges to help keep the bag neat and clean.